Dealing with Nuisance Wildlife Species in your Neighborhood

Hamilton County residents trying to cope with nuisance wildlife will be able to access a broad range of information any time of the day, any day of the year on the Indiana Department of Natural Resources website. It can also be accessed by clicking here.

The Nuisance Wildlife page provides specific information on the general characteristics, food habits, distribution, reproduction, prevention and control techniques, and disease threats of many species of mammals and birds, as well as general information about snakes.

Because of the large number of raccoons and other species that cause a nuisance for landowners throughout the state, the DNR is unable to provide assistance to actually help remove the animals. The DNR does offer some solutions and advice on how to try to prevent future problems and remove wild animals that have created a problem.

Homeowners may also consider calling a nuisance wild animal control operator on the list provided here.

Save the Date - 2017 Indiana Small Farm Conference

Hamilton County Private Applicators Pesticide Training - December 12, 2016

2/12/2016 - HAMILTON COUNTY PARP

9:00 am EST - 11:00 am EST Hamilton County 4-H Fairgrounds, Dining Room. Noblesville

Topics: 

Insect Pest Management - John Obermeyer, Purdue Univeristy

Update on Ear Rot and Mycotoxin Issues - Kiersten Wise - Purdue University

Pollinator Protection - Diane Turner, ANR Educator

Cost: $10.00 at the door

For more information: 

Contact Name: Diane Turner
Title: ANR Educator
Phone: 317/776-0854
Email: turnerda@purdue.edu

We Need Your Help Scouting for Asian Long Horned Beetle

Indiana residents are being urged to spend a few minutes checking trees in their yards and neighborhoods for signs of the Asian longhorned beetle (ALB), an invasive and potentially highly destructive pest.

Purdue University entomologist Clifford Sadof said early detection is the best way to contain the pest and minimize the risk to healthy trees.  "For ALB, the only tool we have is to eradicate the hosts," Sadof said. "No one wants to see apparently healthy trees cut down but the reality is that once the ALB is there, those trees are already dead."

Trees at risk of Asian longhorned beetle infestation include maple, birch, elm, willow, ash and poplar.  Identifying ALB early means fewer trees would have to be removed, he said.

"The sooner we find it, the smaller the area that could be affected," Sadof said. "The best way to protect our trees is by looking at them and reporting any suspicious signs. It takes just a few minutes to look around and it could save a lot of trees."

The Asian longhorned beetle originated in Asia and has no natural enemies in the Midwest. Infestations have been reported in Chicago and Cincinnati, putting Indiana squarely in the at-risk zone, Sadof said. He cautioned that the potential damage caused by Asian longhorned beetles is even greater than the risk posed by the emerald ash borer.

"That's because the Asian longhorned beetle can affect a greater variety and greater number of trees," Sadof said.

The Asian longhorned beetle is easy to recognize, Sadof said. Distinctive markings include:
* A shiny black body about 1-1 1/2 inches long with white spots.
* Long antennae with black and white bands.
* Six legs with bluish feet.

Signs of Asian longhorned beetle infestation are:
* Round exit holes, the size of a dime or smaller, in tree trunks and branches.
* Round or oval scars in the bark.
* Sawdust-like material on the ground near the tree or in branches.
* Dead branches or limbs falling from an otherwise healthy looking tree.

Residents who detect any of these signs should contact the Indiana Department of Natural Resources toll-free hotline, 1-866-663-9684 (1-886-NO EXOTIC). They can also download the Purdue Tree Doctor app for their mobile devices.

"The app provides photos that homeowners and professionals can use to identify both the Asian longhorned beetle and emerald ash borer," Sadof said.

Writer: Darrin Pack
Source: Clifford Sadof

Agricultural Communications: Keith Robinson 

Turf Tips - Lawn Diseases 2016

The summer of 2016 has been quite favorable for the development of an assortment of infectious diseases on residential turf. The primary driver of all of this disease activity is the weather. In the lower Midwest, the combination of elevated temperature and ample precipitation since the beginning August of has spawned outbreaks of brown patch, dollar spot, Pythium blight, leaf spot diseases, and the appearance of symptoms of summer patch and necrotic ring spot. Although infection is almost entirely a function of temperature and moisture, there are other factors (addressed in the linked blog post) that may hasten the decline of turf once disease becomes established.

Not all turf species are susceptible to all diseases. In general, Kentucky bluegrass (KBG) is less prone to brown patch , dollar spot, gray leaf spot, and Pythium blight—but very susceptible to root diseases such as necrotic ring spot and summer patch. Root pathogens are present in all soils, and infect turf as soil temperatures increase beyond 60F. With ample moisture, infection will continue through summer. Plants are killed outright in some instances, but in most cases, KBG can tolerate some infection. However, during periods of environmental stress, infection-impaired plants cannot survive, and characteristic dead patches or rings or frog-eyes appear.

To continue reading this TURF TIPS BLOG post, CLICK HERE!

Rick Latin, Ph.D.
Professor of Plant Pathology
Purdue University

Selecting and Preparing Autumn Produce

Fall is in the air!  Ahhh and yes, it is my favorite time of year. Cool crisp mornings combined with mild afternoons means its time to think about harvesting those fall fruit and vegetable crops.  

This morning I ran across this helpful publication titled Autumn Produce  which focuses on how to select or harvest garden vegetables, how to pick the perfect apple while enjoying one of Central Indiana's many orchards, and finally a few tips for preparing your bounty.  

Click here for a list of the local orchards offering agri-tourism opportunities this time of year. For more information contact your local Extension office.    

Get Ready: Fall is the Time for Lawn Improvements

Lawn Seeding

Indiana lawns contain primarily cool-season grasses, which grow best in the cooler temperatures of spring and fall. During the hottest times of year, they may grow very slowly or even go dormant. Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fineleaf fescue are common cool-season grasses.

Whether your lawn is thin from the rigors of summer or from neglect, fall is the best time of the year to improve your lawn. Some lawns can be dramatically improved with proper fertilization and weed control in fall; whereas others may need reseeding in some areas or even complete renovation.

Adequate soil moisture, warm soil, and limited weed pressure allow for excellent seedling growth. Between August 15 and September 15 is optimum seeding time in the northern half of Indiana and Illinois, and September 1 to September 30 is optimum in the southern half of Indiana and Illinois.

Consider aerating the lawn area, punching 20 to 40 holes per square ft with the largest tines available. This will increase the seed-soil contact and improve germination and establishment rate. Apply a starter fertilizer (high in phosphorus) over the entire lawn at 1.0 to 1.25 pounds of phosphate per 1000 square ft of lawn.

Next, apply the seed to the lawn with either a drop-seeder or a power over-seeder.  Be sure to seed in both directions to adequately cover the lawn area with seed.   Mulching the area will prevent erosion and conserve water. Therefore, mulching is most important when it is impossible to adequately irrigate newly-seeded areas.

Water the newly-seeded area three to four times daily in order to keep the soil surface moist. Light, frequent irrigation is the rule during the first few weeks.  Frequent mowing will limit the competition from the established turf.

Four weeks after germination, apply 1.0 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square ft of lawn using a fertilizer containing N, P, and K.

Fertilization
Properly fertilized lawns better tolerate stresses such as heat, drought, and cold. Applying the right fertilizer at the correct time helps turf plants accumulate and store the essential plant foods that are used for growth and development.

You should only apply the nutrients your lawn needs. The nutrients plants need in the greatest quantity are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Of these, N has the most impact on established lawns. N promotes green color and overall growth, especially leaf growth. Plants need P and K for strong root and stem growth, which is most crucial when establishing a new lawn

Established lawns will benefit most when you apply the majority of N fertilizer from late summer through autumn. This promotes summer recovery, enhances shoot density, maximizes green color, and prepares the turf for winter, all without a growth surge.  To promote maximum density during late summer and early fall (late August through early November), you should apply up to 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet each month.

For more information on soil testing to help you choose the correct fertilizer, look here.

Other tips to consider to help lower fertilization costs is to return grass clippings during mowing to the lawn.  These clippings contain valuable nutrients that can be recycled into the soil. If you must regularly remove clippings when you mow, you may need to increase the amount of N you apply each year by 25 to 50 percent to maintain growth and color.

Diane's Plant of the Week: Dodder

Today I had a sample of one of my favorite and most interesting

Photo credit: Charlie Cambre

plants, a parasitic plant known as dodder. Often times people describe it as orange/yellow spaghetti growing in ditches or crop fields.  Dodder offers no benefit to its host, it strictly derives all nutrition from its victim to survive. 

Dodder does not have any leaves or, for that matter, any chlorophyll to produce its own food. It lives by attaching to a host plant and extracting the host plant’s carbohydrates. It does this by penetrating the host plant with small appendages called “haustoria.” Through the haustoria, dodder will extract the carbohydrates. It is not to the advantage for a parasite to kill its host, thus dodder generally will not kill its host, but if the infestation is severe enough, it may result in the death of the host plant.

Once thought to belong to the morning-glory family, it is now being placed in a family of its own, called cuscutacease. Dodders belong to the genus Cuscuta. The USDA plant data base lists approximately 47 species (http://plants.usda.gov).

Since dodders are annuals and are spread by seed, control

Photo credit: Charlie Cambre

with pre-emergents should work before it can attach to the host. Pre- applications of Kerb have provided good control of dodder in ornamentals and turf. Treflan and Prowl have also been reported to suppress dodder germination. However, Pre-applications often do not retain enough residual activity to provide control for the rest of the season.

Control of dodder with herbicides is dependent on the crop that you wish to control it in. Some herbicides may have an effect on the dodder, but may also either have an effect on the crop or may not be labeled for use in that crop. Always read and follow herbicide labels.

Excerpts taken from Dodder Publication from Purdue Plant Pest Diagnostic Laboratory.

Purdue Hops Team Heads West for Educational Tour

Recently I participated on a Purdue Hops and Small Farms Tour through Washington and Oregon states with the intention to introduce and Purdue Researchers, Extension Educators and Indiana farmers to new specialty crop possibilities. The primary focus of the itinerary included stops to promote collaboration and interaction among team members intermingled with learning innovative procedures, on-going research, and marketing practices.

Our first stop included a visit to Washington State University's Puyallup Research and Extension Center where we joined members of their Small Farms Team and discussed organic cover cropping systems among other projects.

That afternoon we traveled to Toppenish Washington the home of Perrault's Hop Farm, a family operated farm established in 1904. Here we spent the afternoon learning production techniques from some of the best hop producers in the country. We also enjoyed a visit with Yakima Chief, Inc and Hopunion LLC a 100% grower owned supplier for their perspective on the business and marketing of hops.

We completed our time in Washington state with a visit to the WSU - Irrigated Agriculture and Research and Extension Center. This stop may have been my favorite stop where we learned to identify common diseases associated with growing hops, such as downy mildew. This fungal pathogen Pseudoperonospora humuli can cause significant yield and quality losses in hop systems depending on hop variety and disease pressure.

Over the next few days we traveled into Oregon where

we continued to discuss hop diseases, breeding and well as a diverse group of organic vegetable systems at the Oregon State University's Hyslop Farm.
This educational opportunity was professionally rewarding and well as personally enlightening. The Purdue Hops team developed a bond with Indiana growers to promote hops, research best management practices, and develop resources for this new ever expanding commodity within Indiana. If you are interested in more information on growing hops, feel free to contact me via email at any time or by calling our local Extension Office at (317) 776-0854.

Celebrate National Farmers Market Week - August 7-13, 2016

Noblesville Farmers Market

From August 7th through 13th, communities across the country will celebrate their local farmers markets during National Farmers Market Week. The impact of these farmer-to-consumer transactions is greater than it appears on the surface. Now more than ever, farmers markets serve as anchors across American communities, positively influencing community health and wealth. Markets result in more viable regional economies and local farm businesses, increased access to fresh, nutritious food, and stronger social networks that help keep communities healthy

This year marks the 17th Annual National Farmers Market Week to honor and celebrate the important role that farmers markets play in local economies. Plan to visit one of Hamilton Counties many Farmers Markets this weekend and support our local businesses.

Carmel Farmers Market - Saturday from May to September Open: 8am-11:30am
Fishers Farmers Market - Saturday May through September Open: 8am -12noon
Noblesville Farmers Market - Saturday from May to October Open: 8am-12noon
Sheridan Farmers Market - Wednesday Open: 4pm-7pm

The Market @ Saxony - Saturday 8am-12noon
Westfield City Market - Saturday June to September Open: 10am-2pm

Hamilton County Soil and Water Conservation District - 2016 Native Tree Sale

It's time for Hamilton County Soil and Water Conservation Districts - Fall Native Tree Sale! They have even more species available this year as well as online ordering! Learn more and see what they are offering online. 

Order/Payment deadline: September 3rd  

Tree pick up: All orders must be picked up on Friday September 9th between 2-6 at the Hamilton County 4-H Fairground - Lama Barn in Noblesville. 

Click the link below for more information.  

http://www.hamiltonswcd.org/native-tree-sale.html

Daylilies at great prices- July 16, 2016

Do you love Daylilies as much as I do... if so be sure to attend the upcoming Daylily Sale sponsored by the Hamilton County Master Gardener Association.  

Learn About Growing Hops in Indiana - Saturday July 23

Registration Information Here

Look out for Poison Hemlock - A Toxic Weed Commonly Found Throughout Indiana

Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) was introduced into North America as an ornamental but escaped cultivation and became naturalized throughout much of the United States. Other common names include deadly hemlock and poison parsley.  This invasive plant typically grows in pastures, roadsides, ditches, waste areas, marshy areas, stream banks, and is found throughout all counties in Indiana.  

Poison hemlock

Poison hemlock is a biennial that produces leaves in a basal rosette during its first year and forms an upright flower stalk when it bolts during the second year of growth. Poison hemlock has dissected leaves, which resemble those of parsley. However, the stems and leaf stalks (petioles) of this plant differ from other family members in that they are hairless and have distinctive purple spots or blotches.

Poison hemlock flower

The umbrella-shaped clusters of small white flowers are similar to flower clusters produced by many other species in this family such as Queen Anne's Lace.  They appear in June and continue to form through August. A single plant may produce over 38,000 seeds. However, few of these seeds will remain viable after 5 years of storage in the soil seed bank. 

Poison hemlock is easily controlled manually or with herbicides such as those containing the active ingredient glyphosate or 2,4-D. For more information on control, see this publication from Purdue University.  

All parts of the plant contain toxic substances that cause respiratory failure in humans and other animals if ingested. Seeds and roots are more toxic than foliage; also, toxins are present in greater amounts in plants grown under sunny compared with moist conditions. The taste of leaves and seeds of poison hemlock is reported to be unpleasant, so toxic quantities are seldom consumed.

Similar species:

Wild carrot or Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota) looks similar to poison hemlock except its stems and petioles are hairy while those of poison hemlock are hairless and have purple mottling. Wild carrot has a carrot-like taste and smell while poison-hemlock tastes somewhat like parsnip and has a mouse-like smell. 

Wild parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) lacks purple mottling on its stems and petioles, although it is otherwise very similar in appearance to poison hemlock. 

Water hemlock (Cicuta maculata) shares many characteristics with poison-hemlock including hairless stems that have purple mottling and compound leaves. Unlike poison hemlock, water hemlock usually has a cluster of fleshy taproots at its base. Also, habitat may help to distinguish the two as water hemlock grows in marshes and other very wet sites and is generally confined to the central plains and mountainous areas of North America. 

Experts taken from this publication from Ohio State University.

Can't tell a Honeybee from a Bumble Bee? This New Tool May Help!

Bees are more than honey bees. They’re bumble bees, carpenter bees, cuckoo bees and others, and you can identify more than a dozen of them - types you’re likely to see on your farm or in your landscape - using a new pocket card from The Ohio State University.

It’s just in time for this week’s National Pollinator Week, June 20-26, which is meant to raise awareness of pollinators - bees and their buddies - and the good they do for crops and in nature.
“Bees are essential pollinators,” said the card’s developer, Denise Ellsworth, who’s the program director of the Honey Bee and Native Pollinator Education Program in Ohio State’s College of Food, Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. “They’re beautiful, important and diverse creatures that positively impact our lives.”

Single copies of Common Bees of Ohio, a 4-by-6-inch laminated card, are free through June 30 by sending a self-addressed, stamped, business-size envelope to Ellsworth at Department of Entomology, OARDC, The Ohio State University, 1680 Madison Ave., Wooster, OH 44691. If you miss the deadline, you can buy the card throughout the year in quantities of 25 - good for handing out to groups - for $9.99 from the college’s online store at go.osu.edu/BeeID.

Rose Rosette - A Devastating New Rose Disease in Indiana

Rose rosette is a quickly spreading disease that is a threat to virtually all cultivated roses (Rosa spp.) in Indiana, regardless of cultivar. Even rose cultivars known for their exceptional disease resistance and hardiness are susceptible to rose rosette disease. Losses can occur in home and commercial landscapes, nurseries, and botanical garden plantings.

Rose rosette symptoms are initially observed during spring, intensifying as the season progresses. Symptoms are highly variable, depending on cultivar, plant age, and growing conditions. 

Some common symptoms include: 

•   Increased growth/rapid elongation of shoots 

•   Abnormal red discoloration of shoots and foliage 

•   Witches broom (prolific clustering of small shoots) 

•   Spiral pattern of cane growth

•   Shortening of internodes (shorter stem length between leaves) 

•   Distorted or dwarfed leaves 

•   Overabundance of thorns 

•   Atypical flower coloration (e.g. mottling of otherwise solid-colored roses) 

•   Deformed buds and flowers 

•   Increased susceptibility to other diseases, such as powdery mildew
•   Lack of winter hardiness

The disease-causing agent has only recently been identified as a virus, which has been named rose rosette virus (RRV). RRV is transmitted by an eriophyid mite and through grafts. Once introduced into a plant, the virus becomes systemic.

Growers should take precautions to reduce the risk of introduction of rose rosette virus. There is no cure for rose rosette disease once bushes become infected. Thus, early detection is essential to prevent the virus from spreading to nearby roses.

Infected plants, including roots, must be removed completely, Diseased plants should be immediately bagged and removed from the vicinity so that the pathogen is not spread to healthy plants. Alternatively, where permitted, infected plants may be destroyed by burning. Care must be taken when digging diseased plants to avoid scattering disease-carrying mites to nearby rose shrubs. Remove and destroy any regrowth that occurs from roots remaining in the soil after rose rosette-infected plants are removed. 

Exerpts taken from this publication from University of Kentucky. Rose Rosette Disease -PPFS-OR-W-16.

Indiana continues the fight against gypsy moths this summer - Purdue Extension Got Nature? Blog

In the late 1860s, French scientist Étienne Trouvelot brought over a seemingly harmless insect from Europe called the gypsy moth to conduct breeding experiments with American moths. When they escaped his backyard and entered into an ecosystem without their native predators, their population exploded. 150 years later, these moths are still a destructive forest pest in Indiana and other states, and every year an effort is made to attempt to curb their population. This year, the Indiana Department of Natural Resources will continue the fight to save our forests from these invasive insects.

This year’s budget for gypsy moth eradication is $119,000, and the strategy is two-fold. Phase one consists of a crop dusting of bacterial chemical spray over the gypsy moth catepillars’ food sources. This spray is harmless to humans and native wildlife, but is lethal to the caterpillars. Later in the summer, a pheromone will be dispersed over the moths, disrupting the mating process and causing fatal exhaustion.

This huge undertaking isn’t estimated to stop the gypsy moth – in fact, state entomologists don’t see an end in sight. We can only continue to manage this forest pest and aim for reducing populations to a level where local predators can manage them on their own.

For more information, check out Kokomo Tribune’s article “State launches annual effort to wipe out gypsy moths,” and visit Purdue Extension’s Gypsy Moth website to learn more about the gypsy moth in Indiana.

Shade Trees and Scale Insects in Hamilton County Landscapes

High populations of scale insects are drawing attention in Hamilton County yards this spring. The insects, commonly called lecanium scales, feed on the sap of a variety of trees including maple, oak and many others. This week alone we have had two samples come into our Educational Center for problem diagnosis. One sample was found on oak while the other was a mature maple.

The first signs of scale infestation are often noticed before one sees the insect itself. Most noticeable is the sticky, wet substance on under-story plants, yard furniture, or automobiles. This material, known as honeydew, is excess fluid that is excreted as the insects feed. Under-story leaves and other surfaces may be lightly speckled or heavily coated with the shiny drops of honeydew. Eventually a sooty mold fungus grows on this substrate, blackening the foliage, twigs, and bark, and other objects beneath scale-infested trees. Dieback of twigs and branches and premature leaf drop may result as heavily-infested trees compete with scale insects for necessary moisture.

Lecanium scales can vary in size and color but are generally oval in shape. Females molt several times before reaching adulthood. With each molt, the female’s body grows bigger, while her legs and antennae become proportionately smaller. By the time of the second molt, the female scale, with her hardened, brownish, hemispherical body, is incapable of moving from the spot on which she has become fixed. Male scales are delicate, flat and nearly transparent.

Normally, scale populations are kept in check by environmental factors and natural enemies such as ladybird beetles. Heavily-infested trees may show some dieback of twigs and branches and there may be some early leaf drop. Landowners can reduce other stress on trees to help them recover. For landscape trees be sure to water in times of drought and avoid disturbances such pruning and root damage. When populations are heavy on specimen trees, horticultural oils and other insecticides can be applied.  For more information, click here for a great publication from Michigan State University Extension.

Excerpts were taken from Vermont Dept. of Forestry Lecanium scale fact-sheet.

Purdue Extension Education Center Now Open at Fairgrounds in Noblesville

Purdue Extension Hamilton County just opened a new Education Center on June 1. The small meeting space and resource room is located in the Exhibition Center on the Hamilton County 4-H Fairgrounds, 2003 Pleasant Street. A variety of resources and educational materials on gardening, health and nutrition, and food preparation and preservation will be available.

The Hamilton County Master Gardener Association, Inc. (HCMGA) will be available to answer calls and walk‐in questions on lawn and garden on Mondays and Wednesdays from 9 a.m. – 12 p.m. and 1 p.m. - 4 p.m. You can also email your horticulture questions to HamiltonGardenline@gmail.com.

The Purdue Extension staff will be on hand to answer questions about food preparation and preservation. Visitors can also schedule an appointment to have their pressure canner gauge checked for accuracy.

Purdue Extension offices across the state provide educational opportunities to Indiana’s communities - our educators, specialists, and volunteers live and work in all 92 counties. Purdue Extension provides practical solutions to real issues – transforming lives and livelihoods in Indiana and around the world.

For more information about the Education Center or Purdue Extension Hamilton County, contact your local office at (317) 776-0854 or visit www.extension.purdue.edu/hamilton.

Click below to view some photos from today's opening.  Hamilton County Education Center - Grand Opening Today

Purdue Extension - Hamilton County - Rosefest 2016

Join the HCMGA in their award-winning Educational Rose Garden from 9:30 – 11:30 a.m. for a free “Tea in the Rose Garden” event. Tours of the Educational Rose Garden will be available during that time to provide information about roses and answer any questions visitors may have about growing roses.  Click here for more information.  Purdue Extension - Hamilton County - Rosefest 2016

Hamilton County Master Gardener Plant Sale - May 21, 2016

Purdue Extension - Top 5 Tips for Tree Selection and Planting

Purdue Extension - Top 5 Tips for Tree Selection and Planting: Spring is a prime time for improving your property with new trees. They provide many benefits which everyone can share. Wise planning is essential to ensure the new trees meet your design needs and functional solutions as well. Follow these tips to get your tree started right and make it a long-lasting sustainable planting.

Hamilton County Master Gardener Intern Training Dates Announced

Click here for more information about the upcoming Hamilton County Master Gardener Intern Class

Growing Vegetables in Containers

Do you have limited space to garden or feel that you have limited abilities to grow your own vegetables to enjoy? Gardening in containers can be just the answer for you.

 Anything that drains well but holds soil and allows roots to grow can be used as a container. Some popular examples would include clay, wood, plastic, cement, and metal. Many items around the house can be modified for use as plant containers such as pots, tubs, crates, buckets, bushel baskets, whiskey barrels, tires, wheelbarrows, and hanging baskets.

Lightweight growing media that is well-drained and well-aerated is best for growing plants in containers. Garden soil alone will soon become compacted in a container garden, leading to poor aeration and water drainage. Many garden supply stores offer premixed potting soil or soilless mixes and are ideal for small containers.

Naturally smaller plants are better adapted to the restrictions of a container garden. But even large plants such as tomatoes, melons, and squash can be productive if given a large enough container.

Because container gardens have greater exposure to sun, wind, and heat, they need to be watered more frequently than a garden bed. Smaller containers may need to be watered as often as once or twice a day, depending on weather.

Also, over-watering can be a problem if the soil is kept too wet too often. Feel the soil with your fingers, and then water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Be sure to use enough water so some excess runs out of the drainage holes. This will help ensure the entire root area is moistened. Peat moss is very difficult to wet once it becomes dry, so frequently check soilless media.

For more information see this publication by Rosie Lerner, Consumer Horticulture Specialist with Purdue.  

Hamilton County Master Gardener Intern Class Offered and Set to begin in August

Hamilton County has scheduled their popular Purdue Master Gardener Program to begin August 23rd. Classes are scheduled for Tuesday and Thursday afternoons from 1:00-4:00 pm. The program provides gardeners with intensive education in horticultural principles. The instruction is provided without charge, however, there is a fee for supplies which become your personal reference collection. Participants who successfully complete the program and, thereafter, donate an equal number of volunteer hours in community gardening services are certified as Master Gardeners. Yearly donation of time is expected to maintain certification.
Click here for more information.

Looking for local sources to Grow Native!

The Grow Native! program makes sourcing native plants easy for customers. Simply visit one of the participating retailers on the flyer below and look for the Grow Native! logo on plant stakes to find plants that will be a beneficial addition to any yard. 

 A list of participating retailers across Central Indiana is available online at Hamilton County Soil and Water Conservation District. You can learn more about these plants through the Indiana Native Plant and Wildflower Society website.

Spring Seeding Tips for a Successful Lawn

Most Purdue University publications recommend seeding lawns in the fall or in late winter before the soil thaws. Winter seeding allows the seeds to enter cracks in the frozen soil creating great seed to soil contact. Sometimes we are forced to seed our lawn in the spring due to winter damage or initial establishment of a new lawn. If this is the case for you, please follow these tips to be successful.

Although any cool-season grass can be seeded in the spring, spring seedings are more successful with tall fescue and perennial ryegrass than with Kentucky bluegrass due to the faster germination rate and better seedling vigor of perennial ryegrass and tall fescue compared to Kentucky bluegrass. See image above for germination example.  If Kentucky bluegrass is seeded in the spring consider using a mixture of tall fescue: Kentucky bluegrass (90:10, weight: weight) or a mixture of Kentucky bluegrass:perennial ryegrass (such as 80:20, weight: weight). Seeding Kentucky bluegrass alone will result in marginal bluegrass establishment due to the slow germination and vigor of the seedlings and increased comp

etition from crabgrass. The table below gives the recommended seeding rates and days to germination per recommended species.  

New turfgrass seedlings have poorly developed root systems and thus they cannot effectively take up the nutrients from the soil. Therefore, it is important to fertilize frequently after seeding to encourage

establishment. To help the turf establish, apply a “starter fertilizer” to enhance seed germination and development. Starter fertilizer is high in phosphorus which is listed as the second number in the analysis on the fertilizer bag. For instance, a 16-22-8 fertilizer contains 22% P2O5. Apply the fertilizer according to the label directions would should supply at least 1.0 lb. P2O5 /1000 ft2. This application will likely include nitrogen (first number in the fertilizer analysis), which will also help the turf develop an extensive fibrous root system that is better able to take up nutrients and obtain water.

Table 1. Recommended seeding rates for lawns in Indiana.

Species	Seeding rate lbs/1,000 ft2	Days to germinate
Kentucky bluegrass	1.0 to 2.0	10-21
Kentucky bluegrass + perennial ryegrass	3.0 to 6.0	5-21
Tall fescue	8.0 to 10.0	6 to 10
Tall fescue + Kentucky bluegrass	5.0 to 7.0	6 to 21

Taken from Turf Tips written by Aaron Patton, Assistant Professor/Turfgrass Extension Specialist

Garden 2 Consumer Program offered in Hamilton County

Purdue Extension Hamilton County is proud to offer two sessions targeted to small farmers, current or aspiring entrepreneurs, and others looking to profit from foods they produce.  If you fall into this category and are need of more information for growing and producing safe, high-quality foods on food safety regulations, consider the following programs.    

On Wednesday April 13^th, I look forward to having Sharon Pattee from Indiana State Department of Health, Food Protection Program discussing 'home-based vendor' exemption in Indiana Law (HEA 1309). She will discuss if you can operate as a Home-Based Vendor or if you need to use a Commercial Kitchen. She will also talk about certifications that may be required.

On April 20^th, the final program with include food preparation tips and keeping food safe at point of sale. Christina Ferroli,  Marion County Extension Educator will discuss some of the ‘bad bugs’ to consider while dealing with fruits and vegetables and how to prepare some products in your kitchen safely.

If you would like to join us on April 13^th and/or April 20^th for these educational programs, please respond to this email to register.  The programs are scheduled from 10:00am to 12noon and will be located in the Annex at the Hamilton County 4-H Fairgrounds in Noblesville.  The cost for each program is $5.00 at the door.  For more information contact Diane Turner, Extension Educator Hamilton at 317-776-0854.

Native Plant Kits Available

Native plants are those that have grown and thrived in this area since before settlers made this area home.  Native plants are beautiful, low maintenance, and provide ideal food for many pollinators! This spring take the guesswork out of your landscaping and go native by purchasing one of the Soil and Water Conservation District’s native plant kits.

Marsh Milkweed

Each native plant kit is contains 50 native plants for $120 and takes the guesswork out of plant selection by providing a set of plants that will be perfect for your yard. There is a kit for any area of your landscape including pollinator garden, rain garden (for wetter areas), prairie garden, and shade garden.  Each kit contains 10 different species of native plants and can fill a space anywhere from 50 to 150 square feet.

Plant kit orders can be placed online at www.hamiltonswcd.org or by visiting the SWCD office at 1717 Pleasant Street in Noblesville. Orders and payment are due by April 24^th.  The plant kits will be available for pick up at the SWCD office on Friday May 13^th.

This native plant kit sale is part of the Hamilton County Parks and Recreation Department’s Mission Monarch program. Mission Monarch is a year of events and education on the Monarch butterfly and how we can help pollinators! Learn more here: http://www.hamiltoncounty.in.gov/1129/Mission-Monarch

More information on native plants and additional sources for native plant purchases can be found on the Hamilton County SWCD website or by contacting Claire Lane, Urban Conservationist with 

Hamilton County Soil and Water Conservation District.

Ready, Set, Go - The Time to Control Summer Annual Weeds in NOW!

Spring has appeared more quickly this year than it has in years.  With the arrival of warmer air, we also see the gradual increase of soil temperatures which means it is time for homeowners to apply a preemergence herbicide to control crabgrass on turf areas. The timing of that application is critical for effective control of crabgrass and other summer annual grassy weeds. Since the preemergence herbicides recommended for crabgrass control actually prevent germinating seedlings from emerging, these products must be applied before crabgrass seeds germinate. Researchers report that crabgrass seeds germinate when average daily soil temperatures reach 57 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit at a 1-inch depth. 

Some turf managers have monitored soil temperatures as a method of predicting crabgrass germination and determine the optimum time to apply preemergence herbicides. Likewise, the bloom period for forsythia has been used as an indicator for the best time to apply crabgrass control. Forsythia blooms just prior to crabgrass germination signaling the time to apply preemergence herbicides. 

In recent years, models using growing degree days (GDD) have been developed for predicting crabgrass germination and preemergence herbicide application timing. Homeowners and professional turf managers may find the GDD tracker website to be a useful tool to track crabgrass germination and determine the optimum timing for preemergence herbicide applications. Good control of crabgrass can be observed when preemergence herbicides are applied when the points on the GDD Tracker map reach the “under”, “early”, “optimum”  or "late" categories. As of March 30, 2016, central Indiana is heading into the “late” category, and northern Indiana is in the “optimum” category. The “bottom-line” is that applying preemergence herbicides now in central Indiana for effective preemergent control of crabgrass in turf areas.

The following tips are also important for minimizing crabgrass pressure and increasing the effectiveness of pre-emergent herbicide applications:

• Mow cool-season turfgrasses at a mowing height of 3 inches or higher
• Irrigate turf areas deeply and infrequently
• Apply 2 to 4 lbs. of nitrogen per year with the majority applied September through November each year
• Ensure an even distribution of preemergence herbicides, avoiding skips or misses on turf areas
• Always read the label for all pesticide products to determine the appropriate rate of application and spreader setting
• Pre-emergent herbicides must be watered in thoroughly to be effective, time application before rainfall or use irrigation to accomplish this important step.

Taken from Crabgrass Control: Timing is Critical
John Orick Purdue Master Gardener State Coordinator Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture, Purdue University

Purdue University Offers Four Plant Doctor Apps for Plant Problem Diagnosis

I would like to encourage you to take a look at the Purdue Plant Doctor suite of smart phone apps. These handy tools will help you diagnose and find recommendations to manage the most common insect, disease and environmental problems on the most common trees, annuals, perennials, and tomatoes in home gardens. The apps are a pocket encyclopedia that uses over 2,000 photos to identify and fix more than 200 problems on over 200 kinds of plants. 

Screenshots from Tree Doctor App

Imagine you are in your home garden and you notice a problem on the leaves of with your favorite shade tree. These apps will help you diagnose plant problems with an app in three easy steps. First identify the kind of plant that has the problem. So, for example, if you are using the Purdue Tree Doctor, choose the kind of tree (eg. oak, maple, or pine) to narrow your search. Second, you choose the part of the plant that looks bad (leaves, flowers, branches, trunk or roots) to narrow your search even further. Third, you match the problem on the plant with our photos by swiping through our collection of high resolution photos. To save you time, the app arranges the photos for each of the plants so that the most common problems show up first! You can confirm your diagnosis by reading details linked to the photo.

If you already know the problem you have, just skip the diagnostic process and look it up from a list. Then you can get detailed information about the damage the problem can cause, its life cycle and how to control it with some combination of cultural practices and, if needed, a pesticide or fungicide.

You may purchase all of the above mentioned apps by clicking on this link to buy from the iTunes or Android store.

Excerpts taken from Turftips Article by Cliff Sadof, Department of Entomology and Janna Beckerman, Department of Plant Pathology Purdue University

Sustainability Workshop - *Registration Now Open*

Register by clicking here.

Marestail - Tips for Controlling this Tough Weed

Marestail, also known as horseweed and Canada fleabane, has developed resistance to glyphosate, the active ingredient in RoundUp. Although it is native throughout North America, marestail has become quite weedy due to its ability to produce and spread large quantities of seed. An individual plant can produce up to 200,000 seeds! And the seeds have a bristly-hairy appendage that facilitates being distributed by wind.

In the northern parts of Indiana, marestail is typically a winter annual (seed germinates in the fall, overwinters as a leafy rosette, then flowers and sets seeds in spring.) In southern areas of Indiana, it is more typically a summer annual (spring germination with summer flowering and seed.)  The plants can reach up to 6 feet tall.

The herbicides that provide good control of marestail are not generally available or practical for home gardens and landscapes. In the yard and garden, the most successful control strategy is preventing the plants from going to seed. Mowing, hoeing and digging the plants before they flower is key. Small, young plants will be easier to control. Mulching might help suppress germination of existing seeds.

Although aimed at agronomic production, Purdue Extension publication ID-323, Biology and Management of Horseweed, has additional information of interest to home gardeners.  

By B. Rosie Lerner Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist

Introducing the NEW FoodLink QR Code Resource Program

Purdue Extension is proud to announce the official roll-out of FoodLink℠, a resource designed as a FREE point of purchase or point of use way to communicate useful food facts to the consumer using QR codes.

Have you ever stood in front of produce and wondered, “What is that?” or “What do I do with that?” Scan the FoodLink℠ QR codes on fresh fruits and vegetables to learn more about them, including how to select, prepare, and care for them.

You don’t have to be a seasonal produce expert, but now you can get information fast from the experts at Purdue Extension.  Click on the FoodLink words above for more information. 

Consider these spring garden preparations as we enjoy a few warmer days this week

Gardening may be the last thing on many peoples mind this time of the year, but remember these very important gardening chores you can be completing now to save time and headaches as the garden season rolls around.

• Order seeds before it's too late for this year's planting.  You still have time to order from your favorite garden catalog.  You may consider testing leftover garden seed for germination. Place 10 seeds between moist paper toweling or cover with a thin layer of soil. Keep seeds warm and moist. If less than six seeds germinate, then fresh seed should be purchased. 

• Sketch garden plans for your ornamental and edible gardens, including plants that need to be replaced.  Remember to rotate your edible plants each year if you can.  This will reduce insect and disease pressure on those plants you plant each year.   

• Prepare or repair lawn and garden tools for the upcoming season. See below for more detailed information.  

• Start seeds indoors for cool-season vegetables so they will be ready for transplanting to the garden early in the season. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage seeds should be started five to seven weeks prior to transplanting.  Look below for a link to the recommended planting dates for all vegetables in Indiana

Helpful Publications:

  Starting Seeds Indoors

  Caring for Garden Tools

  Indiana Vegetable Planting Calendar

Attention Private Applicators - PARP Training Scheduled February 4th

Success with African Violets

The African violet, known botanically as Saintpaulia, is one of the most popular flowering houseplants. African violets are easy to grow for the beginning gardener, yet offer a wide range of cultivars to satisfy the serious grower. African violets adapt well to typical growing conditions found in the home. Because of their small stature, they also adapt well to limited space gardens such as those in apartments with just a few windowsills. 

Many cultivars of African violets are available, ranging from miniatures (plants 6 inches or less in diameter) to large (over 16 inches in diameter). Flowers come in blue, purple, lavender, pink, red, and white as well as bicolored and multi-colored forms. Flower shapes also vary from single, star-shaped blooms to double, semidouble, fringed, and ruffled. Even the leaves come in different types, including ruffled, scalloped, quilted, and variegated.   

I often have questions about common problems regarding growing African violets.  Take a look at this comprehensive list for answers to some of the problems associated with African violet culture:

1) Spotted leaves - this occurs if you allow cool water to contact the leaves. Use only room temperature water.

2) Small plants with pale yellow leaves - often caused by too much light and inadequate fertilization.

3) Leaves curled downward - may be a result of too low temperatures (below 60 degrees).

4) Long leaf stalks and a few or small blooms - often results when plants don't get enough light.

5) Buds dry up - this might happen if there is not enough moisture in the air or soil and if temperatures are too high.

6) Plants wilt quickly and crown rots - likely they are getting watered too frequently and/or the drainage may be poor (due to potting mix or lack of container holes) or the plants were set too deep into the soil.

7) Leaf stalks rot where they rub against pot edge - high salt concentrations on the sides of the pot and near the soil surface damage the leaf stalks allowing the Botrytis disease organism to enter. You can protect the stalks by putting a strip of aluminum foil, paraffin, or a cardboard cover around the rim of the container.

8) No flowers - may be due to one or more of the following: temperature too low, soil is overfertilized, too much light or too much shade, too much or not enough water, or air contains stove gas. 

Excerpts taken from K-State Horticulture Newsletter by Ward Upham and the Purdue African Violet Care publication written by B. Rosie Lerner and Michael N. Dana

Rosie Lerner Addresses Early Bud Break in Indiana Gardens

Q. During the mild December weather, some of our bulbs started to come up. What will happen to these plants when the weather turns colder this winter? Will they still flower this spring?

A. We’ve heard many similar reports from across the state about bulbs, perennials and some woodies coming out of dormancy. December 2015 was the third mildest on record in central Indiana, according to the National Weather Service. Some plants require less chilling units than others, resulting in some plants responding to mild conditions while others not. Many urban dwellers, in particular, may notice microclimate effects where protected locations seem more prone to this response.  

Tulip bulb emerging

In general, this is not the first or last time that plants have gone through similar or more extreme temperature fluctuations. While it is not likely to cause long-term damage, there could be decreased flowering potential if plants come further out of dormancy followed by normal or below-normal cold temperatures. There is much more weather to get through this winter before we can know the outcome!

Rosie Lerner - Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist